What are ‘old lady’ perfumes and why are they being worn again?

This fall is being the perfect setting for the revivals of the perfumes retro or what they have already called “trend old lady“, which far from sounding stale and outdated, has captured the attention of the younger generations. Far from being simply a nostalgia for the aromas that defined our grandmothers, these powdery perfumes are returning with unexpected force, marking their territory in the world of modern perfumery.

The vanilla noteslavender, patchouli, iris and violet They are seeing a rebirth in the field of signature perfumery, where these classic fragrances are reinterpreted to create contemporary and groundbreaking versions. This is what Miguel Bartolomé, Brand Manager of Isolée, told us, explaining that this return to retro not only seeks to rescue the classic, “but also aims to “challenge established norms about what is considered attractive in terms of aromas.” But what are the notes that characterize a perfume? retro?

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Lavender

Native to the Mediterranean region, lavender has been used throughout history by everyone. its benefits. The ancient Romans used its flowers not only to perfume bath water, but also as medicine. Over the years, lavender has been integrated into the culture of various civilizations, and its popularity has grown in both aromatherapy and perfumery. And it is precisely here where it has emerged as a great protagonist, known for its freshness and calming properties. Its aroma not only provides a clean and herbal note, but also a feeling of well-being.

And although it has traditionally been associated with “older ladies” perfumes, today lavender has been found in male fragrances of high renown that jump over gender barriers. This has made one thing clear: the perception of fragrances is changing and is now more inclusive and diverse.

© Isolee

• The proposal: Wild Mint & Lanvandin Eau de Parfum by Molton Brown. Wild mint and a herbaceous lavender, from Provence. Warm orris root and creamy nutmeg leave a modern and elegant trail. Price: €150.

Iris

Iris is another of those ingredients that, although historically it accumulated an image of powdery and stately elegance, somewhat classic with a rancid nuance, is now being re-imagined. According to Bartolomé, this characteristic aroma is being used in fragrances that not only seek to be elegant, but also challenge the rules of traditional perfumery, creating a more avant-garde proposal that surprises with its sophistication.

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• The proposal: Santal Calling Eau de Parfum from Ex Nihilo. Nutmeg, Iris and a milky accord with a base of sandalwood, Madagascar Bourbon vanilla and musks, to create a hypnotizing aroma. Price: €195.

Violet

Violet, which has always had a romantic and powdery connotation, has managed to make a space for itself in perfume collections aimed at the youngest audience. “It has become one of the ingredients of the moment”points out Bartolomé, showing that this delicate note can be reinterpreted to appeal to modernity without losing its classic essence.

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• The proposal: APOM by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, AISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN, floral, aromatic and amber. With a sweet floral heart and a perfect balance between lavender and orange blossom, it creates a vaporous and warm trail. Price: €185, at Isolée.

Vanilla

Although for years it was seen as a heavy ingredient in perfumery, it has taken a new turn. And according to the expert, this note has starred in some of the most important author creations of today, revealing its most elegant and sensual facet, and relegating to the background the idea that it is simply a cloying aroma.

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• The proposal: Delina Eau de Parfum by Parfums de Marly. Turkish rose, lily of the valley and peony that blend with lychee, rhubarb, bergamot and nutmeg. Vanilla accentuates the sensuality of the composition and leaves its mark. Price: €160.

These are some of the notes that, right now, are starring in the scene. However, the world of retro fragrances is not just reduced to four references.

Other aromas, especially floral and nostalgic, to highlight are:

• The rose, A timeless classic that has been used in perfumery for centuries and is a key component in many iconic fragrances.
• Definitely, jasminewith a fresh, sweet and very feminine aroma.
• Also the aromas with oriental notesnot as powdery as the woods, especially the sandalwood, earthy and creamy that is used as a base in many signature perfumes with retro overtones as it offers a special depth and warmth.
• The amberwhose resinous sweetness has prevailed in perfumery as one of the main aromas, being a special protagonist in the 70s.
• The citrus aromas, such as bergamot or lemon, although they are fresh and cheerful, they also harmonize classic perfumes, filling them with luminosity.

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Traditional perfumes and novelties inspired by the classics

If we have to mention classics of nostalgic perfumery, it is impossible not to start with the Chanel No. 5which since it was launched in the 1920s has undoubtedly been one of the most emblematic perfumes and even today, it continues to reinvent itself again and again (the latest, its new image with Margot Robbie).

The classic Miss Diorwhose floral notes are a symbol of feminine elegance, J’adorethe most intoxicating from the same house, or the most iconic from Estée Lauder, Youth Dew, launched in ’53 by the perfumer Josephine Catapano, that perfectly combines spicy notes with floral ones.

© Dior Beauty

This revaluation of our grandmothers’ fragrances shows a change in the way we perceive and use aromas. And more than a simple return to the old, we are witnessing a evolution that embraces the classic to transform it in a modern and attractive experience for everyone. The new generations are not only willing to experiment with new perfumery, but they are claiming their place in the conversation about the art of it. In this curious crossroads between vintage and contemporary, the future of perfumes promises to be as vibrant as it is unexpected.