Story line When my fiancé Josh and I started planning our August wedding, one of my first thoughts was, ‘Ooh, honeymoon!’ Call me a cliché, but I had always dreamt of holidaying in newly wedded bliss in Positano: driving along Italy’s winding Amalfi Coast, roof down, shades on, headscarf billowing, Sophia Loren energy turned up to 11. Then I read that 12,000 tourists a day descend on the village in high summer. Sharing my honeymoon with the hordes trying to get the best Instagram shot was not the start to married life I’d envisaged.
Steep, but worth it: escape the crowds in Praiano
Sideline Head away from the tourist traps and the magic of this coastline is all yours. Take Praiano, a sleepy fishing village less than half an hour’s drive from Positano, with the same tangle of narrow streets and sea views as its famous neighbour. From the balcony of our hotel, Casa Angelina, we had a perfect view of those iconic colourful buildings trickling down the cliff edge towards the sea. Fancy visiting Capri? Instead of the main town (and its 20,000 day-trippers) we opted for Anacapri at the top of the island, which serves up all the glamour with a fraction of the tourists.
Waistline I would go back to Casa Angelina for the breakfast alone – its pain suisse was delizioso! For a special dinner, the two-Michelin-starred L’Olivo restaurant at the Jumeirah Capri Palace in Anacapri was heaven in three courses. For a more relaxed affair, Il Riccio, perched above the sea and part of the same hotel, is the go-to for cracking seafood, with a buzzy, authentically Italian atmosphere.
Seafood central: Il Riccio at Jumeirah Capri Palace
Waterline No Capri holiday is complete without a boat trip. We swerved the fully catered tours in favour of hiring a boat with a skipper, which, weirdly, is cheaper (£400 for seven hours) although do book in advance (clickandboat.com). We packed our own wine and sandwiches (the shop directly opposite the Jumeirah Capri Palace does the best salami, serrano ham and fresh mozzarella rolls), and our skipper tailored the trip to our tastes. We fancied a leap into azure waters but were less keen on the two-hour queue for the Blue Grotto (on every Instagrammer’s list), so our guy took us on a tour of the most beautiful and, crucially, secluded coves. We swam, ate, drank, sunbathed and did not encounter a single influencer in a string bikini.
Skyline This region is all about sunset views, and both hotels we stayed at are ideally positioned for watching the sun drop into the Bay of Naples. For Capri sundowners, Zuma is a great spot for atmosphere and impressive cocktails. The Michelin-starred rooftop restaurant at Casa Angelina, Piano Nel Cielo with chef Leopoldo Elefante, has fabulous views over Positano and the Med.
Buongiorno sailor: explore the bay by boat
Get in line Take the boat from Positano main pier to Laurito Beach, a tiny bay where you’ll find Da Adolfo restaurant, right on the water’s edge. Warning: you need to make a reservation by phone – emails will go unread. After a feast of tuna belly and sea bass, spaghetti vongole and a medley of lemon desserts washed down with house wine served with slices of fresh peach, I had the foresight to reserve a sunlounger for a post-lunch snooze. To top off a perfect day, on the boat back you get a full view of Amalfi’s coastline.
Party line Fancy a fun day of music and dancing followed by a dive into the sea to cool down? In Praiano, One Fire Beach club is where you need to be. A lively crowd, happy atmosphere, food and drink delivered to your sunbed: what’s not to love? Well possibly the €150 it costs for to hire one if you’re not staying at Casa Angelina (it’s free to residents).
Bottom line Amalfi isn’t cheap. Both Casa Angelina and Jumeirah Capri Palace are in the ‘special occasion’ price bracket (from £569) but for unbeatable service and five-star surroundings, they’re worth it.
