We have our first glass of champagne in the tapestry room, which was specifically designed to house four Flemish tapestries from the early 18th century. After a strict talking-to about where not to stand, what not to touch and what cannot, under any circumstances, be photographed, we are ushered into the room named after the pink-tinted Rococo plasterwork on its walls and ceiling, inspired by the Roman ruins of Palmyra in Syria.
The 18 candles of the 35 kilogram, 1760 Murano glass chandelier provide a soft light, but the subtle pink hue of the walls can still be appreciated. It was painstakingly reassembled after being found in the basement in more than 100 pieces nearly 20 years ago.
Diners can now enjoy one of King Charles’ favourite spots. Dumfries House belongs to the King’s Foundation. Credit: FPA London
Our menu is based on 300-year-old recipes such as poached salmon, fish soup and manchet bread for starters, followed by roast venison and beef, parmentier potatoes and a juniper sauce. For dessert or as the Britons would call it – pudding – there’s lemon and pistachio syllabub, bread and butter pudding or apple and almond trifle.
On the table is silverware on loan from the Royal Collection. Some of the plates are more than 200 years old. It’s all a bit overwhelming.
Evan Samson, the head of the front-of-house team at Dumfries House, tells me it’s authentic to the 1700s, with traditional butler service – including the meal being served “family-style”. The menu, he says, was researched and prepared by executive chef Tom Scoble. It reflects the culinary fashions typical of country houses in that age.
The writer (back right) among the dinner guests.Credit: FPA London
“There’s a lot documented on 18th-century dining and what would have been in style, also what would have been available,” says Samson. “I think what we try and balance is thinking of the time of year to make sure we’re authentic, we’re locally sourced. We didn’t want to lose that fact.
“I wish I could be a fly on the wall at one of those dinners from the 18th century to see exactly how everything went on. And so many people come to the house, and it just provokes your imagination to go around and to imagine them having drinks in the drawing room and having dinner in the pink dining room and moving through to the drawing room for coffee.”
But here’s a warning, it’s £375 ($740) a head. Proceeds from the dining experiences will be used to support the work of the charitable Kings’ Foundation, which provides practical education courses for more than 15,000 students every year. It trains the next generation of skilled craftsmen and women in heritage techniques essential to many traditional UK industries, including fashion and textiles.
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It’s all very over the top. But it’s a magical evening. If you find yourself this way, and have the spare cash, you must try it. Why should it only be Charles and Camilla who eat like kings and queens?
The writer was a guest of The Kings Foundation and Dumfries House.
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