Barra Latin American restaurant and bar in Melbourne

Are we entering Melbourne’s long-awaited Latino age? I certainly hope so. The tacos are getting better, and the food of Mexico, Central and South America is growing ever stronger here.

One day soon, mayo-filled burritos and dubious fusion tacos may be a thing of the past. Soon, a vast array of foods from this massive swath of the globe – one that encompasses many of the world’s greatest food cultures – should be available. Hurrah!

It seems just such the moment for Morena and Barra, side-by-side restaurants on Little Collins Street from Alejandro Saravia, a chef originally from Peru but who has made his name in Australia showcasing local Victorian produce at Farmer’s Daughter and Victoria.

The two venues share many things: a chef, certain staff, an overlapping wine and cocktail program, and a mission to bring lesser-represented Latino flavours to Melbourne diners. Morena is the fancier of the two, with a slightly more ambitious menu (and a sister restaurant of the same name in Sydney), while Barra is the more casual – and accessible – option.

The food at both is pretty exciting, though I get the sense that Morena is still finding its footing, especially on the service front, and I’m inclined to let it grow a little before issuing a full review.

But Barra is probably already what it’s always likely to be – a sunny lunch and dinner option with fun drinks, friendly service, and some of the most interesting and well-executed South American food around.

The room is spread out across a long front window, outfitted in various shades of pink, red and brown, with black-and-white chequered floors, and almost has the bearing of a swank diner.

“Barra is just the casual, low-commitment option that ought to get you to try (or rediscover) Latin American flavours.”

One of the most exciting things about both venues is the focus on Latin American wines, with lots of exploration possible of the wines of Chile, Uruguay, Argentina, and beyond. This is probably more enticing for red wine drinkers, as the whites are limited and tend towards a floral palate. But either way, it’s a whole new world to get stuck into.

Cocktails have a lightly tropical bent, with lots of pisco and cachaca on offer – the Morena flip ($24) was the prettiest and best of the bunch, but it’s hard to go past a $14 Paloma if you’re there during happy hour.

I will take issue with the Michelada Verde ($17), which looked and tasted more like a beer that had been lightly perfumed than the classic refresher infused with tomato (or, in this case, green juice).

The menu, which lists the country of origin alongside each dish, is divided into sections – raw, snacks, mains, del asador (meats off the grill) and sides. There’s also a set menu available for $85 a head. It makes for a flexible experience, just as able to cater to drinks and snacks as a full-blown meal.

If I have one overriding suggestion for the kitchen here, it’s to go lighter on the salt in almost everything. It wasn’t a dealbreaker, but I’d have preferred to taste most of the ingredients more clearly.

Regardless, I’ll return to this pretty room to eat the crisped and meaty ox tongue skewers ($14) over a vibrant yellow Peruvian carretillera sauce, made with yellow chillies. It’s one of the many dishes here that made me realise how much I’ve missed Peruvian food in all its bright, acidic glory.

Mexican dishes make a strong showing too: a kingfish aguachile ($25) was bracing and fresh, and the snack section offers a few lovely one-bite morsels, such as a tostada topped with smoky grilled squash and delicate zucchini flowers ($13).

I’d complain about the price of the corn tamale ($36) if I wasn’t so damn happy to eat it. The dish of masa (ground nixtamalised corn) steamed in a corn husk or banana leaf, is a staple of Mesoamerican cooking, comfort food that can generally be bought for a few bucks in Mexico and the US.

Still, the corn-on-corn-on-corn presentation here (the masa is stuffed with corn and lies in a corn sauce) is truly delicious, showcasing the breadth of sweet, nutty and musky flavours this one wondrous plant can achieve.

There are plenty of meaty options, including steaks in various sizes and with various pedigrees ($50-$120). But I particularly enjoyed the lamb neck ($48), which comes with a pert green mole, showered with herbs and thinly sliced radish.

I’m so glad that this chef, after proving how good he is with Australian ingredients and modern Australian cooking, is finally giving us a taste of his homeland and the wider wonders of Latin American cooking. I can think of no better bearer of this particular good news for Melbourne.

Barra is just the casual, low-commitment option that ought to get you to try (or rediscover) these flavours.