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Thursday, November 7, 2024

where to eat, where to sleep and what to see

Because of the color of the landscape, because of the thousand excursions that the Picos de Europa National Park and its mountainous surroundings, to spend a few days of rural tourism discovering the traditional architecture of its towns and some of the best examples of Romanesque architecture in Cantabria, because of how good a lebaniego stew tastes at this time and for what is going to happen this weekend in the capital of the region: the Orujo de Potes festival, declared of national tourist interest, and dedicated to this typical drink with 4000 years of history. Potes is a plan of 10.

The festival celebrates its 32nd edition this year, But the production in Liébana of this revitalizing drink that has its own gastronomic brotherhood goes back a long time, as the vineyards have been part of the landscape of these lands for more than 10 centuries. It is even believed that The Romans already planted the vineyards, although the production of pomace began in the Middle Ages in the surrounding monasteries. In these the grape skins were reserved for later distill it in copper stills and obtain the valuable liquor which then served as currency.

where to eat, where to sleep and what to see© Georgios Tsichlis / Alamy Stock Photo

There is no better opportunity than this party to learn everything about this product, revive the centuries-old tradition of its distillation, drink some pomace and see how the streets of Potes are filled with traditional music and folkloric performances, competitions, workshops, tastings and a lot of atmosphere. Each year, in addition, a popular ‘godfather’ is chosen as Orujero Mayor, which this year has fallen to the Cantabrian journalist Quico Taronjí. He will be in charge of reading the proclamation and actively participating in this festival in which the Alquitara de Oro will also be awarded to the brand that has produced the best pomace of the year.

WHAT TO SEE IN POTS?

As the capital of the region, this town at the confluence of four valleys It is a great service center, but, above all, a beautiful town with a unique urban network of cobbled streets, mansions with shields on their facades, popular stone houses mountain style, hermitages, towers and bridges that reveal a rich history at every step.

The Infantado Tower

This six-story medieval building around a central patio is the most representative and outstanding example of the civil architecture of Potes. Inside hosts an exhibition on the Blessed of Liébana, and from its roof you can see a magnificent view of the town, the rivers, the Viorna mountain and, in the background, the Picos de Europa.

The Torre del Infantado is now an exhibition center.
The Torre del Infantado is now an exhibition center.

The river walk

Liébana is a kind of pot, a valley closed by the high mountain ranges of Peña Sagra and the Picos de Europa, and carved by three main rivers, the Quiviesa, the Deva and the Bullón. The first two converge in Potes, next to whose waters there is a pleasant walk where you can admire several bridges and two mills, the San Cayetano mill and the Palace mill.

Potes, Deva river and the Torre del Infantado, in the Liébana valley, Cantabria© Jose Antonio Aldeguer / Alamy Stock Photo
Old mills are discovered along the river walk.

Old church of San Vicente Mártir

It is the headquarters of the Lebaniegos Studies Center, Pilgrim Assistance Office and Potes Tourism Office and now Concerts, conferences and various activities are held in its rooms.

The Orejón de Lama Tower

Also called Torre de Bedoya, it is located next to the hermitage of San Cayetano and the bridge of the same name. And it’s a mix between urban Gothic palace and fortified tower house. It hosts exhibitions and cultural events.

The Juan de la Cosa Cartographic Museum

On E Streetl Sol, one of the most beautiful in the old town, The Fredo Arias de la Canal Foundation building houses this museum that offers a journey through the evolution of cartographic art.

WHERE TO EAT IN POTS?

The Soldrería

The spinach croquettes with Picón cheese or the lebaniego stew with goat chorizo, the cheeks stewed in Pelurotus mushroom sauce, the tails in chickpea flour, the pankostinos… Everything is delicious in this restaurant-tavern of well-deserved fame (lasoldreria.com).

Croquettes from the La Soldrería restaurant, Potes, Liébana valley, Cantabria
Croquettes from La Soldrería.

Cayo House

It has been a place of reference to try traditional Cantabrian cuisine. Their specialties: lebaniego stew and roast lamb. If you are looking for something more formal, there is a bar where you can enjoy portions and good wines. It has been recognized with a sun for the Repsol Guide (casacayo.com). It also has accommodation.

WHERE TO SLEEP IN POTS?

Villa Elena Inn

At the entrance to Potes, a 5-minute walk away, it occupies a old Indian house that has been transformed into a hotel and it has a garden where you can relax with views of the Picos de Europa (villaelenapotes.com).

Posada Villa Elena, Potes, Liébana Valley, Cantabria© @villaelenapotes

Valdecoro

Close to the town, but in a quiet place, of personal treatment, with recently renovated rooms and a delicious breakfast. This is how clients review this recommended hotel to stay in Potes (hotelvaldecoro.com).

Arha

It is centrally located, its rooms have been renovated and it has a spa where finish the day in its thermal circuit (arhapotes.com).

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